How to Choose a Reputable Rescue

With the ever-expanding world of dog and cat rescue groups, choosing a reputable rescue can be challenging.  It is not a decision we wish you to take lightly, especially when making decisions regarding the addition of a new family member to your home.  Taking a moment to ask yourself a few key questions before moving ahead with a particular rescue, may ensure a smooth adoption process and a lifetime of success with your new dog or cat.

 

1)      Does the rescue group have a strong working relationship with a veterinarian?

It is very important that the rescue group works closely with a veterinary clinic to ensure that their adoptees are thoroughly examined prior to being matched with their new home.  In many cases, the past medical history of an animal is unknown, and so a keen and professional eye is necessary to ensure that a complete physical exam is completed. Potential health issues should be identified and prioritized, with a plan in place for long term treatment if required.  Adoptees should also receive appropriate preventative care in the form of vaccinations, deworming and nutritional advice.

2)      Does the rescue group operate out of a brick and mortar location, or do they rely on foster care for pet placement?

Some larger rescues, such as the Winnipeg Humane Society (WHS) and Winnipeg Pet Rescue Shelter, operate out of a single location.  The WHS even has their own in-house veterinary clinic with upwards of four staff veterinarians.  Many rescues are smaller and rely on a network of foster homes to care for their adoptees. In many cases, this is just as good if not better than physical shelters. However,  be sure to ask about their foster home protocols (how many foster pets per home; how regularly are the directors in touch with the foster parents; etc)

3)      Does the adoption fee include spay/neuter services?

Spay and neuter surgery is of utmost importance.   Not only does it prevent future unwanted litters, but it also prevents a list of life-threatening health issues that are directly related to patients who are not spayed or neutered.  These issues include: life threatening infections (pyometra), increased risk for mammary cancer, prostate enlargement, prostate infections and perineal hernias.  A responsible rescue will adopt animals who are already spayed/neutered, OR they will include a clear plan for when and where the surgery will take place post-adoption. 

4)      Are the dogs/cats fully vaccinated?  Have they received internal parasite prevention and/or heartworm prevention?

All adoptable pets should be fully vaccinated with a minimum of their core vaccinations.  They should have received dewormer and treatment for ectoparasites (fleas/ticks) if regionally required.  Always inquire about whether heartworm prevention has been administered, as this is an important part of keeping our pets healthy, especially in Manitoba.

5)      Does the rescue have a board of directors?

A board of directors ensures a group of personally invested and accountable individuals.  It allows for a group consensus on issues regarding adoptions, patient care, and rescue protocols.

6)      Are rescue organizers timely in their response to inquiries?  Are they available by phone and email?

In the digital age, sometimes it is important to be able to personally speak with a rescue director to ensure that you are comfortable with the rescue protocols and adoption protocols.  Many people have unfortunately fallen prey to online scams that have asked for deposits on adoptees that don’t actually exist.  An open line of communication between rescue and potential adopters is key.

7)      Is there an adoption interview process?

This may include a phone interview, application process and perhaps even a home visit.  This indicates that the rescue if fully invested in making sure their adoptees find dedicated and suitable homes.

8)      Are past medical records available prior to, and upon adoption?

This is very important with regards to making an informed decision when adopting a pet with past medical concerns.  Medical records should be made available and transferred to your veterinarian to guarantee that future care and management is complete and seamless.

 

We hope that some of these suggestions may help guide you towards your new best friend in the future.  And remember, if in doubt, always reach out to your friendly veterinary staff.  We are more than happy to advise you on whether a particular pet may be the right one for you and your family.

 

Post written by Dr. Samyra Stuart-Altman

What Every Pet Owner Should Know About Food Allergies

Here at the clinic, we see A LOT of pets with allergies.

Generally, allergies are divided into two main triggers: Food and Environmental

We start to think about food allergies when we see pets that are itchy, have frequent skin or ear infections, sensitive stomach. Food allergies typically do not have a seasonal pattern.

Dogs are not born with food allergies, rather they become sensitized to certain ingredients over time. Therefore, it is possible for a dog who has been on the same diet for multiple years to develop allergies to the diet. Food allergies can technically be triggered by any ingredient in the diet, but the most allergenic ingredient is protein, mid-size proteins to be exact. They can be meat or plant in origin.

Common allergens for dogs include chicken, beef, dairy and wheat.

Common allergens for cats include beef, dairy, chicken, egg and fish.

Unlike environmental allergies, there are no formal blood or skin tests that can determine that a pet has food allergies, or what part of the diet they are allergic to. The only way to determine if a pet has food allergies is to perform a food trial. Food trials are performed over 8-12 weeks, where we feed ONLY the specific food. This timeline is due to how long it can take for the skin to normalize after the food allergen is removed. If the pet’s skin has improved over that time, we can perform a food challenge, where we feed the food that the pet was on previously and monitor for return of symptoms. Since every pet is different, we may have to try a few different diets before finding the right one!

Now, about the diet. Hypoallergenic diets are divided into two categories: novel ingredient and hydrolyzed.

A novel ingredient diet is a diet that contains ingredients that the pet has likely not been exposed to before. The immune system may tolerate these diets because it hasn’t had time to develop the allergy to that ingredient. It is possible for pets to cross-react to ingredients that are similar, for example a dog that has reacted to beef may also react to venison. Novel protein diets that we have had success with include kangaroo and rabbit.

Hydrolyzed diets contain ingredients that have been hydrolyzed or digested into smaller molecules (smaller than those mid-sized protein molecules). These molecules are thought to be too small to trigger the allergic reaction caused by common triggers. These diets may be a better choice for pets who have previously been exposed to a wide variety of food or treats.

We do recommend veterinary diets for food trials, as some store-bought foods can still contain ingredients that are not listed on the label. Grain-free diets will not be effective in a food trial unless the pet has a known grain allergy.

Food trials require a lot of patience and effort, and can definitely be frustrating at times. However, they can be so rewarding once we have a pet whose itchiness is controlled and is comfortable again!

Post written by Dr. Kristen Wilson

Bandage Application for Horses

Whether we are dealing with a wound on a horse’s leg, trying to bring down swelling, or providing support for a limb, there are a few main rules that we follow for bandage application on horses to ensure proper application and safety for the horse.

When bandaging a limb, there are three main layers:

1)      Primary Layer: The role of the primary layer of a bandage is to contact the wound and conduct discharge away from the wound. You may hear about adherent and non-adherent dressing – these are chosen based on the reason for bandaging as well as the type of wound (if present). We most often use non-adherent bandage material, our favourite being Telfa Pads.

Before applying the primary layer, ensure that the leg is clean and dry. The dressing can be applied directly to the wound or following topical medications, if applicable. A loose layer of stretch gauze can be applied over the dressing to ensure it stays put, because as we all know, gravity does not work in our favour when bandaging horse legs.

2)      Secondary Layer: The secondary layer is meant for absorption of discharge, application of pressure and support for the limb. We will use either Gamgee or cotton pads for the secondary layer, again based on the purpose of the bandage. If we are dealing with a wound with a lot of discharge, Gamgee is a great product to use as it is nicely padded while providing a lot of absorptive action. If there is no wound, or a wound that does not have a lot of discharge, we can use reusable cotton pads as our secondary layer.

To apply the secondary layer, be sure to start it just below the horse’s coronary band. This will help prevent swelling below the bandage. Begin on the inside or outside of the leg, avoiding placing the edge of the material right on the cannon bone or tendons on the back of the leg. Make sure the material lies flat and smooth to prevent uneven pressure or discomfort (think about making sure your sheets are smooth when making a bed). Pressure should be snug, but not excessive – you want to prevent slipping of the bandage while also preventing disruption of circulation to the limb.

Following the padded layer, stretch gauze is used to hold the padding in place and apply more pressure. Again, you want this layer to be snug without being too constricting. Work from the bottom of the leg upwards, overlapping each round by 50%, ensuring even pressure distribution the whole time.

3)      Tertiary Layer: The tertiary layer’s job is to provide more pressure, if necessary, and protect the underlying layers of the bandage. For this layer we use Vetrap (or similar self-adherent wraps) or polo wraps. Again, ensure even pressure during application, working from the bottom up with 50% overlap of each round. It is good to leave about 1cm of the underlying padding visible on the top and bottom to prevent a tourniquet effect on either end of the bandage.

Stacked Bandaging: When bandaging the upper limb of a horse, it is necessary to use a stacked bandage. A normal bandage should be applied to the lower limb, and then another bandage applied above that one. If the upper limb is bandaged alone, it can cause stocking up and disruption of the limbs circulation. Stacking the bandage provides even pressure over the entire limb, and that lower bandage will help prevent your upper bandage from slipping.

Bandaging the Hock: If your bandage involves the hock, there is a bit of a different technique involved. A figure 8 pattern should be used around the hock joint to prevent excessive pressure and rubbing on the point of the hock.

Post written by Dr. Kristen Wilson

Changes for Producers Come December 1st, 2018

This is just a friendly reminder to all of our valued clients and producers that starting on December 1st, all livestock producers in Canada will need a prescription from a licenced veterinarian, before they can buy a medically important antibiotic (MIA) for therapeutic use in livestock production. 

Medically important antimicrobials are essential for the treatment of serious and life-threatening infections. This change is a result of regulatory and policy changes made by Health Canada to promote the responsible use of antimicrobials in animals and prevent the development and spread of antimicrobial resistance.

 Having an established Veterinary-Client-Patient Relationship (VCPR) will be an important part of a smooth transition.

The Canadian Veterinary Medical Association (CVMA) defines a legitimate VCPR as supported by evidence of “relevant and timely interactions with clients and their animals such as farm visits, clinic appointments, consultations, individual animal or herd examinations, lab reports or production record reviews, sufficient to show the veterinarian has taken the steps necessary to establish medical need to prescribe and dispense pharmaceuticals”.  Basically, a Veterinarian-Client-Patient Relationship exists when your veterinarian knows the livestock operation well enough to be able to diagnose and treat any medical conditions animals develop.

For example, a producer that has established a valid VCPR will be able to obtain a prescription for a given amount of product for perhaps a full year (depending on the circumstance) enabling them to buy it as needed and for use according to advice of the veterinarian.

For more information about changes to federal policy and the regulations related to antimicrobial use and resistance, please don’t hesitate to contact us at 204–275–2038 to speak with one of our large animal veterinarians or please access the following :

https://www.canadianveterinarians.net/news-events/news/fact-sheet-selling-prescription-medicated-feed-hc-cfia

Feline House-Soiling: "Why did my cat pee on the bed…again!!??”

Feline house-soiling is a complex problem faced by many cat owners.  It not only exerts stress on the bond between cat and owner, but it can also be an indication of either an underlying medical condition or a complicated behavioural issue. It is important to realize that your veterinarian and registered veterinary health technologists are a valuable resource when it comes to diagnosing, managing, and preventing house-soiling behaviours.  We understand that this represents a stressful situation for cat owners.  Many of us have been in similar situations with our own cats.  Though it can feel like the behaviour is personal, it is very important to note that cats do not urinate or defecate outside of the litter box due to anger or spite.

The American Association of Feline Practitioners (AAFP) recognizes that there are four main causes for feline house-soiling:

 

Marking Behaviour

Marking is part of normal feline behaviour and can include urine spraying, scratching, rubbing and deposition feces.  Marking will occur for a number of reasons, ranging from sexual behaviour in unneutered/unspayed males and females, anxiety-related marking in response to environmental changes and stress, as well as territorial marking due to a perceived threat from outside of the home (new people, neighbourhood cats, visiting tradespeople during renovations).

 

Social and Environmental Factors

Cats are very private and tidy creatures, so it is no surprise that they can be very particular with their litterbox requirements. In a multi-cat household, a dominant cat may cause a less dominant cat to seek areas outside of the litterbox to ruinate and/or defecate.  Some cats may also avoid litterboxes in high traffic areas such as near doors, hallways or next to the household laundry facilities. Cats may also avoid using the litterbox if they perceive the experience to be negative, such a a dirty litterbox, loud noises occurring near the litter box (washing machine, furnace), or becoming trapped in a lidded-litterbox.

Medical Issues

Every cat exhibiting house-soiling behaviours requires a thorough physical exam, which may include screening tests such as blood work, urinalysis and x-rays or ultrasound.  This is because there are many medical conditions that may present with the first symptom of house-soiling.  Conditions can be as varied as arthritis, other sources of pain, kidney disease, urinary tract infection, or constipation.

Feline Idiopathic Cystitis (FIC)

This is a common condition of cats that results in symptoms similar to a urinary tract infection (UTI), however there is no bacterial component present.  Inflammation of the bladder wall leads to frequent urination, painful urination, and sometimes there may be blood in the urine.

 

Treatment and Management

First and foremost, contact your veterinarian.  This is especially important to rule out underlying medical conditions resulting in this type of behaviour.  The next phase of management revolves around three key components

 

Providing the Perfect Litterbox

Number of Litterboxes: the general rule of thumb is to have one more litterbox than the total number of cats in the house.

 

Type of litter: consider trying different types of litter (clay, newspaper pellets, granules) as some cats may develop a preference for certain textures.

 

Size: LARGE! Cat’s love large litter boxes.  Sometimes a homemade litter box made from a shallow yet large Rubbermaid container is better than any store-bought alternative.

 

Location of litterbox: Place litterboxes in different areas of the home with. Litterboxes should not be placed next to each other as cat perceive this to be one large litterbox, versus separate boxes.  Prioritize quiet and sheltered areas and on different levels in multi-level homes.  Older cats may prefer a litter box on the main floor due to mobility issues.

 

Other Helpful Tips

-          Clean litterboxes daily

-          Restrict outdoor and roaming cats from entering your yard

-          Do not punish your cat for marking as this may result in fear aggression

-          Use feline friendly pheromone sprays and diffusers, specifically Feliway

-          Clean urine-marked areas thoroughly to remove any residual scent which may encourage re-marking

 

Cats are complex little creatures, and this is why we love them!  However, they are sometimes accompanied by the complex issue of house-soiling.  Please ensure to reach out to your veterinarian right away for guidance in understanding your cat’s medical, social and environmental needs. 

For additional resources for enriching your cat’s environment and ensuring they are living a happy and stress-free life, we encourage you to visit: www.catfriendly.com/enrichment

 Post written by Dr. Samyra Stuart-Altman

Feng Shui for the Indoor Cat : Environmental Enrichment for your Feline Friend

Understanding your cat’s physical, emotional and social needs will enhance your bond and your cat’s quality of life. There are a few easy steps to get started, which are listed below in five categories.

Provide Safe Havens

Cats like to have a birds eye view of their surroundings, and typically, they don’t like to share.  Providing your cat with multiple elevated areas where they can perch, preferably by themselves, allows for your cat to feel relaxed and confident.

Playtime

Schedule playtime with your cat in the same way that you schedule a walk for your dog!  Cats like to exert their predatory behaviour, and directing this natural tendency to hunt, stalk and pounce towards a toy, helps to prevent this type of contact with you ankles! Using toys with different textures, laser pointers and wand-toys are all ways to encourage playful interaction.  Always ensure that toys involving string or feathers are only used during monitored playtime to prevent ingestion of the toy.  Leaving food puzzles, feeding balls and larger toys available at all times will help to provide independent playtime when you are not home.  Try placing your cat’s favourite toy in different areas of the house for them to find. Or better yet, hide their toys on and around their scratching post and cat condo to encourage targeted scratching behaviour.

Positive human-cat interactions

It is important to provide positive and predictable interactions with all members of the human family in the house.  It is no surprise that our feline friends are very particular individuals, and as such, they have their own likes and dislikes. Be sure to remind guests of their preferences, such as whether they like to be petted or brushed so as to avoid any unintentional distress or confrontation.

Provide multiple and separated resources in multi-cat households

In this scenario, resources are considered to be food and water dishes, toileting areas (litter boxes), safe havens and toys. This is especially key in maintaining a peaceful multi-cat household. Ensuring that multiple food and water dishes are located in different areas of the house, and sometimes on different levels such as on a counter or a bench to allow for separate feeding.

The nose knows: respect your cat’s sense of smell

A cat’s sense of smell is extremely sensitive! Be respectful and limit their exposure to scents from visiting cats or dogs. Ensure areas that may have been previously urine marked are cleaned thoroughly to prevent recurrence of marking. There is also abundant research showing that synthetic cat pheromones, such as Feliway spray and diffusers, can be used throughout the house to reduce stress.

It is true that we often view cats as “the easy pet” to have because they don’t need to go for walks, and they are often left to their own devices. However they are complex individuals that require an enriched environment to uphold their quality of life. Please consider taking a moment to review additional resources on the Ohio State University Pet Initiative website.  But most of all, just remember to have fun with your cat!

Post written by Dr. Samyra Stuart-Altman

https://indoorpet.osu.edu/cats

www.catvets.com

Central Veterinary Services Vet Office Etiquette

Unlike most dentists’ or doctors’ offices, veterinary clinic waiting rooms can be loud, chaotic and potentially dangerous places to be. A few simple rules could make them a lot safer and saner for everyone involved.

Firstly, the vet’s office is not the indoor equivalent of the dog park. It is not the place for pets to play and socialize. There are likely sick animals in the room who may be irritable, weak or contagious. Our veterinary staff will put infectious animals into exam rooms quickly, but we don’t always know right away to do so.

So, every dog should be leashed at the vet’s office, including obedience champions, little cute-as-a-button fluffballs, and that bouncy lab pup who wants to know everybody. For their own protection, puppies that have not been fully vaccinated should be carried or crated if at all possible.

Leashes deserve a little more attention. There are several long discussions by veterinarians online about the evils of the retractable leash. These are plastic-handled contraptions containing coils of thin cord often 20 feet in length or longer. People have lost fingers when the cord gets wrapped around them. People have lost dogs when they darted out into traffic. Please keep all retractable leashes short while at the veterinary office so you can grab your pet’s collar if needed. With that in mind, traditional leashes are often best in many environments.

Lastly, Cats belong in carriers with few exceptions. We have seen too many people shredded by frightened kitties and too many cats lost from the parking lot when this rule is broken. There are ways to acclimate cats to carriers, mainly by transforming them into cozy, treat-laden dens that are left out all the time at home. If the big scary box only emerges before a big scary car ride to the place with barking dogs and sharp needles, it’s going to be tough getting kitty inside. Once in there, she may hurt herself in panic.

If you have any questions on the etiquette we require in our veterinary office, please direct these questions to one of our receptionists at 204-275-2038 or email centralvetservices@gmail.com.

Summer Checklist for Your Pet's Health & Happiness

Summer is here (well not officially)! With the warmer months ahead, there are several pet health tips to help keep your pet in tip-top shape! Two ways you can help keep you dogs and cats safe is by having them on a Heartworm and Tick/Flea prevention medications.

Heartworm disease is a serious and potentially fatal disease in pets in Canada and many other parts of the world. It is caused by foot-long worms (Heartworms) that live in the heart, lungs and associated blood vessels of affected pets, causing severe lung disease, heart failure and damage to other organs in the body. Heartworm disease affects dogs, cats and ferrets, but heartworms also live in other mammal species, including wolves, coyotes, foxes, sea lions and—in rare instances—humans. Because wild species such as foxes and coyotes live in proximity to many urban areas, they are considered important carriers of the disease. Dogs and cats in Manitoba should be on Heartworm prevention from June 1st to November 1st.

 

We offer 3 different kinds of Heartworm prevention for dogs including:

1. Heartgard: A soft, chewable, beef flavoured tablet that is given orally to your dog once every 30 days from June 1st to November 1st. It is rather tasty, so most dogs are very happy to get this extra treat!

2. Revolution: A topical liquid that is applied to your dog’s neck/back once every 30 days from June 1st to November 1st. This prevention is absorbed through the skin and does need some time to dry. Revolution is a great alternative to those who are picky eaters or have food allergies.

3. Proheart: A slow-release injection that can only be administered in clinic and will last from June 1st to November 1st with one single injection!

 

Our cats require Heartworm prevention too! Currently there is a treatment for canine Heartworm, but due to the size of a Heartworm in comparison to the cat’s heart – there is currently no safe treatment for cats with Heartworm disease.

 

We offer 2 different kinds of Heartworm prevention for cats including:

1. Revolution: A topical liquid that is applied to your cat’s neck once every 30 days from June 1st to November 1st. This prevention is absorbed through the skin and does need some time to dry. Revolution is a great alternative to those who are picky eaters or have food allergies.

2. Milbemax: A unflavoured, coated tablet that is given orally to your cat once every 30 days from June 1st to November 1st.

 

Ticks have also become more of a concern for us here in Manitoba with the increased incidence of Lyme disease. Ticks also carry diseases such as Anaplasmosis and Ehrlichiosis which usually show up with very vague symptoms making these diseases hard to diagnose. Luckily our climate is not the ideal setting for Fleas, but there are concerns of Flea infestations during the summer months.

 

We offer 4 different kinds of Tick/Flea prevention for dogs including:

1. Simparica: A firm, chewable, beef flavoured tablet that is given orally once every 30 days when temperatures are above 4 Degrees Celcius.

2. Nexgard: A soft, chewable, beef flavoured tablet that is given orally once every 30 days when temperatures are above 4 Degrees Celcius. This tablet is safe for young puppies.

3. Bravecto: A soft, chewable, beef flavoured tablet this is given orally once every 12 weeks when temperatures are above 4 Degrees Celcius.

4. Advantix: A oil-based topical parasiticide that is applied to your dog’s neck/back once every 30 days when temperatures are above 4 Degrees Celcius.

 

We offer 1 kind of Tick/Flea prevention for cats including:

1. Bravecto: A soft, chewable, beef flavoured tablet this is given orally once every 8-12 weeks when temperatures are above 4 Degrees Celcius.

 

Depending on your pet’s lifestyle we can help you choose what preventative medication is right for you!

 

With the warmer months also come the increased likelihood of allergic reactions to

insects, bees, molds, dander and pollens!

 

Common symptoms seen this time of year include:

Increased sneezing with eye and nose discharge

Itching and licking

Acute allergic skin reactions of the ears and skin, as well as hives

 

Enjoy your summer

and be sure to contact us for all your veterinary needs!

 

Vaccine Titre Testing

Vaccine Titre Testing

Introducing Titer Testing

We are excited to now offer a convenient, in clinic, titer check for commonly vaccinated for viruses causing severe and life threatening illness: Parvovirus, Distemper virus and Adenovirus. These diseases are vaccinated for, usually using a combination vaccine, routinely starting at 8 weeks old. Recently, studies have shown that many dogs do not need to be vaccinated for these diseases as often as was previously thought with some dogs maintaining protective antibody titers for more than one year after their initial puppy vaccines, or more than 3 years after their last ‘puppy’ booster at one year of age. On the opposite end of the spectrum, there are some puppies that are considered ‘non-responders’ that are shown to NOT hold protective antibodies against these serious diseases even after receiving their puppy shots on schedule. For these reasons, the Vacci-Chek Titer Test is valuable – it greatly allows us to individualize each dog’s vaccine protocol, giving only the vaccine for these diseases when blood antibody titers are shown to be non-protective!

The Ins & Outs of Kennel Cough in Dogs

Kennel cough, also known Canine Infectious Respiratory Disease (CIRD) or Infectious Tracheobronchitis results from inflammation of the upper airways. The term tracheobronchitis describes the location of the infection which is found in the “windpipe”, or trachea and bronchial tubes. This illness spreads rapidly among susceptible dogs housed in close confinement. There are several viruses and bacteria that can cause kennel cough, often at the same time. These include adenovirus type-2, parainfluenza virus, and the bacterium Bordetella bronchiseptica.

The clinical signs of kennel cough may be variable. The cough in these cases is often described as harsh, dry coughing, which may be followed by retching or gagging. The cough in these cases is easily induced by gentle pressure placed on the larynx or trachea. Kennel cough is a mild, self-limiting disease but may progress into fatal bronchopneumonia in puppies, or to chronic bronchitis in senior patients. This risk is associated with the decreased immune systems puppies and senior patients often have. Along with the coughing you may also notice your pet wheezing, having runny eyes/nose, having a lack of appetite and/or exhibiting depressed behaviour.

There is no specific treatment for the viral kennel cough infections, but antibiotics may be used against the bacterium Bordetella bronchiseptica. Preferably, affected dogs should not be hospitalized because the disease is highly contagious (and also self-limiting). Cough suppressants may be prescribed in more severe cases, but should only be used as needed to control persistent nonproductive coughing. The bacterium Bordetella bronchiseptica is often the culprit of many of the more severe clinical signs listed in the above paragraph, but some antibiotic resistance has been reported for this bacterium. Most kennel cough infections are easily resolved in 1-3 weeks, but mild clinical signs may linger even when the bacterium has been eliminated.

Within the Canine Distemper vaccine (DA2PP) that we offer at Central Veterinary Services, is immunity against adenovirus type-2 and parainfluenza virus (as long as the vaccine schedule is completed). We also recommend vaccinating dogs who will be visiting boarding facilities, doggy daycares, dog parks or grooming facilities against Bordetella bronchiseptica, because the risk of contracting the bacterium is greatly increased. We at Central Vet offer an intranasal vaccine or an injectable vaccine against Bordetella bronchiseptica for our canine patients. The intranasal vaccine allows local immunity to develop on the mucous membranes of the nose, throat and windpipe where the infectious agents first attack. This is why the intranasal vaccine typically is recommended the first time your pet receives a Bordetella bronchiseptica vaccine. In subsequent years we would boost annually with the injectable form. The vaccine we carry that provides immunity against Bordetella bronchiseptica has shown in clinical trials to decrease the duration of the cough by 84.4% in vaccinates compared to controls. Clinical trials have also shown that after 655 dogs were vaccinated with the avirulent live culture intranasal vaccine according to label recommendations that only 1 dog reported to have intermittent sneezing for 2 days following the vaccination. No treatment was required for this patient.

Immunity, even if a dog has experienced a natural infection of kennel cough, is neither solid nor long-lasting. We cannot expect vaccines to do much better. Since immunity varies with the circumstances it is important to consult with your veterinarian regarding specific vaccination recommendations for your pet.

Call us today at 204-275-2038 for more information.

References:

1. Aiello C. et al. Merck Veterinary Manual. 2016.

2. Zoetis VANGUARD Rapid Response Intranasal. www.zoetisus.com/products/dogs/vanguard-rapid-resp-3-sf-intranasal.aspx. Last accessed 2016.